This final week of lessons was nerve-racking as it included my ageing with postiche assessment. Ninety minutes was allocated for this practical assessment and I was well prepared with my face chart, model (Deji), researched images of Michael Jordan as well as an image of my tutor’s television ageing makeup illustration (so I had ample guidance.) The essential items I brought in with me were Kryolan grease palette, sprit gum, latex, a sponge, palette, makeup remover and my makeup brushes.
My model Deji (a beautiful dark skinned Nigerian model) was quite challenging due to my inexperience of working with dark skinned models. My previous makeup challenges have all involved mainly fair skinned models with the exception of two at fashion shows in my work experience earlier this year. Currently I have no concealers/foundations suitable for dark skin in my kit. Usually I work with what my model specifically chooses (quite often their own product), however my model was a young man which made it quite difficult. Furthermore, I was also using my Kryolan grease paints and I was fully aware that I would be looking at the darkest shades for boldness.
As I had practiced my television look during my free time, it gave me the chance to see what products worked best. Experimenting with a black shade proved it was too harsh and unrealistic for television makeup. It was a struggle to get a colour exactly suitable as brown is a bit too close to my model’s skin colour, however I needed to keep my image natural taking into great consideration the highlighting which will show up on the camera. Therefore, I chose the darkest brown shade and built it up to create the darkness that I needed. In addition a dark creamy shade from my W7 Camouflage Kit palette was perfect for highlighting and so I decided I would use these colours in my assessment.
Working light handed with my brushes was crucial (my previous attempts were too heavy) and I was pleased with the results. Applying ageing lines in the places that I wanted was very satisfying, even though in some areas it was more complicated. For example the forehead was tricky as no crease lines appeared even when the model tried making facial expressions. This is how the ageing makeup looked below.
Unfortunately my moustache let my whole look down as I had chosen to use Yak hair and the hairs pointed in so many different directions that it was impossible to get it in the holes without trimming it down (this was knotted at home then cut it into shape). On balance, I decided to re-make my moustache and do that again separately which was agreed by my tutor. It was pleasing to pass my ageing makeup and have the opportunity to reattempt a moustache.
The new moustache was created a day later (after 4 and a half hours of knotting!) It was a different design and also a different hair type (human hair.) As I had already made a very short moustache, my tutor thought that it would be wise to make a long one to showcase different techniques. This is how my new moustache looks.
This task was very enjoyable but I do feel disappointed in myself for rushing the final assessment before ample practice. However, the important factor is I have learned from my mistake. It is far better to be patient, take each stage slower and practice really does make perfect.
The following day I moved onto working on my character (Aphrodite’s) head piece. The base for this was a felt hat which I had to mould and soften into shape using a steamer. I placed my hat on top of the steamer for 5-10 minutes (until it was fully damp all over), twisting it around so that the edges were covered. Next, I took it off and quickly placed it on top of a wooden block, pulling it down over the block as far as I could, before it dried out so that it fitted the block and was big enough for my model’s head. Once I had it in place, I stuck pins around the hat to keep it in place and then left it to cool. The next step was to dampen a piece of buckram, rinse it out and then place it over the top of the felt hat, again pulling it down, trying to flatten it as much as possible and placing pins around it again. I have left this to set, to be collected it in a week’s time, so that I can make my head piece over the Christmas holidays! Images of this process are shown below.